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Too much of a good thing is just right appears to be the philosophy behind the Capital Grille. Debuting in Chevy Chase on Nov. 16, this 40th Grille nationally joins others locally in D.C., Tysons Corner and Baltimore. Known for its solicitous service and plentiful portions, the Grilles may be favored by the rich and powerful, but even we ordinary mortals are made to feel welcome. Wait staff in white shirts, black bowties, black pants and long white aprons beneath tan jackets tend to every need that needs tending.

The clubby ambiance of the upstairs dining room includes a lot of dark wood and comfortable, well-spaced burgundy leather booths. Massive chandeliers illuminate walls with portraits of prominent Chevy Chasers and bucolic landscapes. Above the open kitchen, clocks display the time in Tokyo, Los Angeles, Chicago, Chevy Chase and London. With a bar and lounge downstairs, three private dining rooms and a patio for warm weather, The Grille accommodates 310 guests.

Honored by Wine Spectator with an Award of Excellence, The Grille features a floor-to-ceiling temperature-controlled wine kiosk that holds more than 3,000 bottles. The oversize menu opens to showcase this surfeit of riches. Some 325 Old and New World wines starting at $27 escalate to $345 for a red wine from Opus One in Napa. A separate list details 25 wines offered by the glass. There's much to savor even if you don't engage in a signature wine tasting or rent your own wine locker.

Corporate executive chef Jim Nuetze took the helm after opening executive chef Bobby Varua departed. His seasonal menus celebrate quality local artisanal ingredients.

The creamy lobster bisque, brimming with lobster bits, is over the top even before sherry is added. A platter of heavenly smoked salmon contains all the requisite fixings – capers, chopped onion, chive-laced tartar sauce and toast points. The flavor of the signature pan-fried calamari is all about the abundant hot cherry peppers. The enormous portion begs to be shared.

Steak plays a leading role. The dry aged, hand carved 14-ounce sirloin is of excellent quality, and the seasoning is more than mere salt and pepper without being overwhelming. Likewise, the Roquefort butter bathing the gorgeous veal chop knows its place is secondary.

As a side, roasted cremini, portabella and oyster mushrooms could have received a little more love, cream and seasoning, opines my dinner companion. Lobster mac 'n' cheese, the requisite elite comfort food, is a little clunky, but refinement in this place is not so much about a gentle hand or a light touch. It's about plush excess. Even the fries are parmesan truffle fries, we observe.

Man does not live by meat alone, and The Grille has excellent fin and claw alternatives. Sushi-grade, sesame-seared tuna, about nine ounces, commands respect. The two-inch-thick cut is seared to perfection and pink in the middle. Gingered sushi rice and three dipping sauces, a sinus-clearing wasabi oil, mild ginger vinegar and salty white soy in tiny cups set in holes in the plate, serve it well.

Equally distinguished pistachio-crusted mahi mahi filets are piled atop lobster-mashed potatoes and finished with lobster sauce. A Laurel and Hardy pairing of buttery seasonal vegetables, slender haricots verts and chunky carrots, is a fine complement to the fish.

Can you ever have too much lobster? Here you can indulge with two-, three- or four-pounder. The kitchen does the work. The lobster is bodacious, well-cooked and cut into buttered bite-sized pieces.

Just when you think you cannot eat another morsel, the dessert menu appears. We are glad we bagged the leftovers to save room for the house-made desserts.

The flourless chocolate espresso cake could prompt an ecstatic "When Harry Met Sally"-type response. Key lime pie is lush and excessive as well. Cheesecake is delicate and delicious, lightened in texture with ricotta cheese and garnished with fresh berries. Robust coffee tempers the richness of the desserts.

Service is paramount and customer loyalty courted. A happy reunion of a Grille regular with a familiar waiter takes place at a neighboring table. We are given our server's business card. That's establishing rapport.

You be the critic: Log onto www.zagat.com/voteDC by Feb. 21 to register your opinions for the 2011 Zagat D.C./Baltimore Restaurants guide.